A Actual Trip a Few Neighborhoods Away

A Real Vacation a Few Neighborhoods Away

2021-05-08 09:30:00

COMPARED WITH many Brooklyn neighborhoods, Pink Hook doesn’t get loads of guests. Bordered to the west by the Buttermilk Channel, and to the south by the Erie Basin and the Gowanus Bay, Pink Hook is maybe best-known to New Yorkers as the location of town’s solely IKEA retailer. Though the realm is only a few minutes’ drive from decrease Manhattan, it isn’t straightforward to achieve by public transit. The closest subway station—at Smith and ninth Avenue—requires a 15-minute stroll beneath the unprepossessing shadow of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway. Two ferry traces serve the neighborhood however one among them has been suspended for the reason that starting of the pandemic.


I’d get up to the sound of foghorns—the piers had been close by—or else to the cawing of gulls.

However regardless of its relative inaccessibility—or due to it—I’ve been in love with the neighborhood for nearly so long as I’ve been an grownup. I found it by chance, a number of years in the past, once I went to evaluate an experimental play on the floating Waterfront Barge Museum, positioned on what was as soon as the 1914 Lehigh Valley Barge. I bought misplaced on my approach from Carroll Gardens and ended up wandering by way of the neighborhood’s group gardens and still-working warehouses earlier than coming to the pier, ultimately, at nightfall, to observe the solar set in good pink over the Statue of Liberty: a lot nearer, from there, than from Manhattan. Since then, I’ve corralled reluctant mates to affix me within the neighborhood each time potential, regardless of the trek: to have brunch (and the much-lauded “metropolis’s greatest” Irish espresso) at native restaurant Fort Defiance. Or else to tear into complete lobsters on the Pink Hook Lobster Pound, or to take heed to dwell music at insalubrious hours at Sunny’s, a vaguely nautical bar simply off the waterfront the place musicians—Irish, bluegrass, people, klezmer, jazz—play six nights per week. Eccentric and eclectic, Pink Hook feels much less like a neighborhood of New York than like a metropolis in itself or a madcap seaport like Italy’s Trieste, that I’d liked. One seemingly residential window on Van Brunt Avenue is house to an inexplicable show of Betty Boop dolls; an area crèche in an empty lot has develop into the de facto house of the realm’s stray cats.

Sunny’s bar, a neighborhood establishment, the place Irish, bluegrass, people, klezmer and jazz bands play a number of nights per week.

Throughout the worst months of the pandemic—once I prevented subways altogether—I took to biking from my house in Morningside Heights to Pink Hook, through the Manhattan Bridge and the reassuringly separated waterfront bike paths alongside the Brooklyn waterfront. I’d work on my laptop computer open air at native cafes, or else on the pizzeria Hoek, the place I may watch evening fall on Manhattan from the outside tables off the Valentino Pier. I’d take heed to the musicians at Sunny’s play impromptu live shows on Conover Avenue.

When the chance arose for me and my husband to briefly relocate to the neighborhood, I took it. A couple of days later I had a routine. I’d get up to the sound of foghorns—the piers had been only a five-minute stroll away—or else to the cawing of gulls. I’d spend mornings working alongside Billy, a neighborhood cat who adopted me, within the heated again backyard of the Black Flamingo cafe.

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Lunch concerned darting throughout the road to Mark’s Pink Hook Pizza—the place the proprietor memorized my order, known as me darling, and insisted on careening throughout the ground to open the door for me—then biking to one of many neighborhood’s quite a few waterfront picnic spots. I’d work on varied benches, stopping occasionally to take heed to the vinyl music invariably echoing from the Pink Hook Document Retailer ($3 books within the cart exterior), or purchase groceries at Fort Defiance: repurposed through the pandemic right into a high-end normal retailer.

Within the early night, there have been choices. The neighborhood—nonetheless full of business areas—boasts a waterfront vineyard (the Pink Hook Vineyard, with staggeringly reasonably priced $25-a-person tastings), two breweries (the Keg and Lantern and Sixpoint) and two distilleries (Widow Jane, whose Botanica bar is briefly closed to the general public, and Van Brunt, the place you may nonetheless drink an outside Previous Customary among the many stills). As a rule, I’d decamp to the extra informal sidewalk tables of the San Pedro Inn, a dive-bar-cum-Mexican-restaurant, alternating sizzling toddies and frozen hibiscus margaritas through the erratic climate of springtime.

Louis Valentino, Jr. Park and Pier in Pink Hook.

Evenings had been for Sunny’s. There was no set begin time for the music. (“Someday after seven,” the bartender would say, and shrug). The bands would play in a largely remoted backroom whose window opened as much as the backyard; we’d sit exterior, with greenback hand heaters and mulled wine, listening to jazz riffs or people harmonies, nestled between an area heater and a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, till closing time.

Though the neighborhoods of Carroll Gardens, Cobble Hill, and Gowanus had been only a 10-minute cycle away, I not often felt inclined to depart Pink Hook.

Liberty Island sits simply throughout from Louis Valentino, Jr. Park and Pier.

I’d grown up in New York Metropolis. I used to be accustomed—or so I assumed—to creating a house in a neighborhood. However after just a few weeks in Pink Hook, I felt extra at house than I’d ever felt on this metropolis, even within the haunts of my childhood. The relative isolation of the realm had engendered a definite solidarity: To dwell in Pink Hook, it felt, was to be a part of a group distinct from, although by no means absolutely divorced from, town as an entire.

I’ve returned by now to Higher Manhattan. But it surely’s Pink Hook—now a 90-minute bike journey away—that seems like house. I return once I can to spend afternoons working on the Black Flamingo, dinner at San Pedro, evenings listening to Sunny’s jazz. In spite of everything, I’m a daily now.

THE LOWDOWN

Discovering your individual nook in crimson hook

Getting There

Throughout unusual occasions, two ferries run usually between Manhattan and Pink Hook. The NYC Ferry’s South Brooklyn Line runs roughly half-hourly throughout peak commute occasions, and hourly thereafter, from Pier 11/Wall Avenue, an 18-minute journey, and Clinton Wharf (ferry.nyc, $2.75). The “IKEA Ferry,” run by New York Water Taxi (briefly suspended as a result of pandemic; $5 a journey however free one-way on weekdays with a $10 IKEA buy) takes about half-hour and runs to the neighborhood’s southern shore. On land, the closest subway cease is the elevated F/G at Smith and ninth.

Consuming and Consuming There 

For a comparatively small neighborhood, Pink Hook has a plethora of eating places and bars. Head to the pizzeria Hoek for waterfront views and a wood-burning oven (117 Ferris St., hoekbrooklyn.com), or to Somtum Der for Isan-style Thai meals (380 Van Brunt St). If you happen to’re in search of a extra informal to-go lunch, the eggplant Parmesan sandwiches at neighborhood mainstay Defonte’s can simply serve two (379 Columbia St., defontesofbrooklyn.com). The Pink Hook Lobster Pound gives suitably nautical fare  (284 Van Brunt St, redhooklobster.com). For drinks solely, the $25-a-person tastings on the Pink Hook Vineyard provide one of many metropolis’s greatest bargains (175 Van Dyke Avenue Pier 41, redhookwinery.com). For cash-only low cost drinks and dwell music, head to Sunny’s (253 Conover St., sunnysredhook.com). 

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